Oriental NC and a rest

They say that sailing is either complete peace of sheer terror. Well let me tell you about what happens when you think you've got it made. God comes and gives you a tap, telling you not to get too cocky. Two nights ago Dave and I finished a 70 mile run from Coinjock to Belhaven, NC. We were tired but there was no wind, cloudy with a threat of rain, so we decided to anchor in the harbor instead of tying  into a marina and paying the $100. We are on a strict budget and we have all winter to get through. Anyway the anchor seemed to be holding, I made us a fish dinner, had a glass of wine, and was reading a book. (The Girl in the Spider's Web). Dave had gone to bed. With the suddenness of a lightening strike the wind picked up and began howling through the rigging. I jumped up ran to the hatch and looked out. Not good. We were swinging, moving, dragging the anchor. Dave was up in a flash and into the wheelhouse to start the engine. It was pouring rain. We hauled up the anchor having drifted a quarter of a mile across the bay. Luckily the bottom is mud, silt and no hang ups. We went back to where we had been anchored and let it go again. We stayed in the wheelhouse watching our position, but not for long. Again we dragged and again we tried to set it. It's still pouring. The third time we set the anchor and it dragged we decided to find a berth. Now it is midnight, raining and we can't see a thing. We found what looked like a bulkhead, but when we got close enough just feet away we could see that there was no poles, no cleats, no place to tie. We drifted away from the land and saw what looked like pilings. A sign said 'Private Marina.' We needed a place and that was it, a port in a storm. There wasn't a soul around to ask permission from so we tied up the Richard & Arnold, got out of our wet clothes and slept like babies. The next morning a nice gentleman came by at 6:30 to say he watched us last night. With all the lights on he wasn't sure what kind of a boat we were and it looked like there were a lot of people running all over the boat. I said, "Yes that was Dave and me." We left the dock a few minutes later and did a 49 mile run to Oriental. It was rough where the Pungo River meets the Nuese River but the boat didn't seem to mind. Right at the area where we were to turn to port and head up the Nuese for Oriental, I said to Dave, "That anchor looks like its going to slide off the deck." He said, "Nah, it's not that rough." Five minutes later the anchor slid off the deck and Dave flew out the wheelhouse door. The anchor, chain and most of the line (200) feet was on its way to the bottom. Dave managed to grab the last six feet of line and wrap it around a cleat. The boat was thrashing in a six foot chop as he put the rope around the capstan and brought the anchor back aboard. We made it into Oriental Harbor at about 2 in the afternoon. We have a great spot to tie up with the commercial fishing boats and will be here for a few days visiting friends, Randy and Ellen.

Norfolk and the Navy

I wanted to add a small post about where we spent the night because I'm so impressed with what surrounds us. We have reached mile marker 000 of the Inter Coastal Waterway at a bend in the Elizabeth River. Everywhere I look I see America. People working on ships. Ships that protect us, serve our country, keep us safe. This is the heartbeat of the Navy and it makes me proud. It is amazing what we can do when we are pulling together.  The port of Norfolk / Portsmouth has got to be the busiest place I've ever been on the water. We went from a tiny sleepy harbor one night to a bustling waterway the next. The trip is giving us a picture of our country from the deck of a moving boat. A strange way of seeing our coastal communities. This is the I-95 of the waterway. Now that we are tucked into the ICW all we have to do is follow the charts, buoys and cruising guides. Its like planning a trip across the country by car only much slower, there's time to prepare. We are not without some anxious moments, like passing a tug and barge in a narrow channel, or when the depth sounder read no water under us, or tying up feet from the stern of a million dollar yacht (don't even think of touching it). We keep moving south. The temperature is 76 and I'm barefoot and sleeveless. I believe this is why we are doing it. I checked the Provincetown weather today and it said 60 with fog, so not so wintery yet. Still this is an adventure of a lifetime for us. I'm still learning about how to navigate, keep the boat headed in the right direction and how to tie up so that we look like a smart crew. The yachts we've seen are absolutely remarkable, right out of James Bond movies. Lots of smaller boats as well, but nothing at all like our Richard & Arnold. Everyone asks us about her. She's unique, that's for sure. I'm comfortable living here and I'm pretty sure I'll make it through the winter without going stir crazy. My grandson is doing much better, I'll talk to him again tonight, he's home from the hospital. Thanks to the many who have send get well wishes. To all my friends, family and fellow boaters: Fair winds.

Chesapeake Bay, the queen of bays

This is finally beginning to feel like a real vacation. My stomach has unclenched, my blood pressure is down and I am enjoying the scenery. We celebrated Dave's birthday with friends, the boat tied up at SkipJacks Marina in the Sassafras River near the top of Chesapeake Bay. Our friends, Joe, Chrissy and Joshua picked us up and took us to PA- Amish country. We had two full days of R&R, hot showers and laundry, and then I found myself missing the boat.  I think I'm hooked. We left on Monday and headed back down the winding river then turn to port when we reached the big bay. This waterway is absolutely remarkable. So many tributaries, rivers and bays entering and continuously flowing into the mother bay. I can understand how a person could explore the Chesapeake for a lifetime and not see it all. For our next stop we headed to St. Michaels, a cozy little town on the eastern shore, nestled in the Miles River - up Eastern Bay off Chesapeake Bay. It took a good two hours after leaving the Chesapeake to get there, but it was worth it. A wonderful maritime museum dedicated to the mariners of Chesapeake Bay, the Queen of Bays (as National Geo calls it). The museum is 18 acres so we did some hiking. They have a great boatbuilding workshop, railway, history exhibits of oystering, crabbing and steam boating. There are wonderful boats on display both in and out of the water. The harbor came highly recommended by Steve Kennedy who also loves old wooden boats. It was worth the trip. We departed at 6:45. The air was damp and sweet smelling. As the sky became lighter we were greeted by a heavy dark fog. Not my favorite way to travel, but Dave used the radar, autopilot, chart plotter and computer to find our way through the pea soup. The air remained thick with fog for about 2 hours, then patchy, and finally full sun leaving a clear skyline. Mother nature has been on our side for this entire week, light to no wind!!! The joy of water traveling, at least for the motor-cruiser. After a 7 hour steam we came into the Patuxent River and around the bend into Solomons Island. This narrow piece of land is a bright spot for mariners, lots of marinas and friendly oystermen. We met a great couple who go oystering together daily and have for five years. Great to see women working the water. We had a wonderful experience as we came close to the harbor. Dave was hailed on the radio by the captain of a research vessel, the Rachael Carlson, who recognized the Richard & Arnold from last Sept when he was in Provincetown doing research. While he was in Provincetown he picked up a copy of my book, Nautical Twilight and he just happened to be reading it when he looked up and saw us going past. He invited us to tie up to the fishermen's dock at the University of MD biological lab. There is a shared dock space that the University set aside for commercial fisherman, and here we are tied up nice and sweet and

at no cost. As a matter of fact we have only paid for two nights so far. Out of 14 days that's not bad. The picture is St. Michaels as we were leaving, hard to believe but 30 minutes later we were in a thick blanket of fog. Its been a grand two weeks. Oh and by the way, my 7 year old grandson is in the hospital in Maine, has pneumonia, so please say a prayer for the little man. We love him dearly. Thanks. Fair winds.

Delaware Bay, C & D Canal

Today the Delaware and the C & D canal. We left the Cape May Inlet at 7:00 am and went through the Cape May Canal. We had the tides on our side and slid through doing 9 knots. When we came out the other side and turned up Delaware Bay, Dave put up the small jib sail that we brought for just this purpose. We had a southwest wind that pulled us along at a brisk 10 knots. Really felt like we were flying. Its not really that fast, just about 14 miles an hour but on the water - for us - that's fast. The tide stayed with us the entire route and brought us to the C & D canal at noon. The sail had to be brought in and there was some busy time while Dave took the sail in, brought the stabilizer arms up and tried to keep a steady course. He's a good mariner and I have to admit I'm not much help. I hope I'm learning. I need to get the hang of tying up properly, so as not to embarrass ourselves and keep us safe. I get anxious when entering port, leaving port, navigating and just about everything else that goes with the mariner's life. The only time I'm truly relaxed is when we tie up. Dave says I'll get better at it. At least I've not been seasick on this trip and I stopped taking Bonnine. We are currently tied into the Chesapeake Inn, Restaurant and Marina. Had a great hot shower, nice lunch out (shrimp, crab cakes and salad and a beer (to calm my nerves). Now I'm back at the keyboard where I feel most comfortable. I have not written a word on the new book, although I have plenty of ideas in my head. The days fly by while I check the charts, watch the weather, wind and tides while planning our next stop. When I get really nervous I call my son, the professional mariner, and he tells me what I need to know. He's a peach. I can hardly believe we've been gone only 9 days, seems like a lifetime. We took a walk after lunch to the Municipal Marina on the other side and found out we could have tied up for free. Dave saw a boat and said, "That looks like Paul's boat, the 'Scup'. He's the assistant harbor master in Oak Bluffs, Martha's Vineyard." Well wouldn't you know but he was right on. We sat and talked with Paul for awhile, he's made this trip many times. He's heading for Key West and we hope we meet up with him again. If not it will be next spring in Oak Bluffs.
Early night for me tonight. The days run took 7 hours and now its time to rest.

Heading south

The Richard & Arnold has a lazy roll every time another ferry leaves the dock here in Atlantic Highlands, NJ in Sandy Hook. We came down the east river with the outgoing tide doing a brisk 10 knots. That's good going. I marveled at the UN building, saw a tram passing overhead from Manhattan to Governor's Island, was in awe of the Statue of Liberty, but nervous leaving the East River through 'the narrows' at lower Manhattan because I've never seen so much water traffic. Ferry boats to Staten Island, Tugs with barges, US Coast Guard, a couple of sailboats, tankers and us. We passed the four masted Peking docked alongside an old lightship and the Sherman Zwicker from Maine. I think that's how its spelled. All this and helicopters and airplanes overhead. I think we went under eight bridges today. We could see the traffic and marveled at how slow we moved in comparison. The day went smoothly, light winds, sun and we docked early. Last night we moored in City Island and walked around the town, visited the City Island Maritime Museum. Did you know that City Island is famous for building racing yachts like 'Freedom' that won the America's Cup. The town built many famous wooden sailing yachts, but when fiberglass took over the boat building industry and waterfront property became so valuable (1970-80's) the old boat yards began to close down. None of the big boat building yards have survived, but there is a sail maker there and a small travel lift for taking out boats. Barron's Boat yard, good people and the mooring was only $35 for the night. There is a full moon tonight and because we have a long ride tomorrow we will most likely leave around midnight to cruise the Jersey shore. It will most likely be 16 - 20 hour trip and we'd like to enter Cape May while there is still light. We shall see how it goes. Also the forecast is good weather for tomorrow and then Wednesday it turns yucky. We hope to make it in to port before the wind picks up and rain comes down.  I have asked myself why I choose to do this trip and I honestly don't know. It is something we've always talked about and now it's happening.
Living aboard is comfortable. We have everything we need and I'm content. Miss my grandkids like crazy, face-time works and I talk to them every other night. Well it's almost 8pm and I need to hit the bunk. Have safe travels out there in your cars going 60 miles an hour - I feel like a turtle.      

Slow start

Off to a slow start. We've said goodbye to our family, friends and neighbors.  Finally moved aboard only to be held up by winds blowing in excess of 35. Dave said there's no reason to beat up the old girl, that would be me not the boat  ( she can take it). We've had a comfy / cozy berth at the  wharf where the Hindu usually ties. The beautiful Hindu is on her way to Key West having left less than a week ago she is already in the Carolinas. Must be nice to have a great crew, including Mike Winkler and his son. They do watches, 24/ 7 and just keep going. They will be there before we leave Massachusetts. We'll do it our way; stopping every night in a new place. Taking in the sights, meeting new friends, and enjoying each day. The Richard & Arnold is as prepared as she can be. Tanks full, plenty of water, gas and food. I've learned how to use my phone as a hot spot so I can send out emails, check the weather, blog and do everything I could do from land. The only things my floating home lacks are: TV (don't miss it one bit), a dishwasher (using less dishes anyway), washing machine (we can wear our clothes a little longer). We are anxious to cast off and it looks like Wednesday AM we will be heading for the Cape Cod Canal. I hope to keep my friends informed of our travels and add a few pics as we go along, I will post a blog weekly. We are heading to Martha's Vineyard for our first stop, after that we'll check the charts, tides and weather each night, and then select the next stop.

Moving ahead and Making ready

Want to mention that I will be speaking and reading from The Fishermen's Ball on Tuesday, October 6, 2015 at the Truro Public Library at 6:30 pm. WOW that's tomorrow. Hope to see you there. This will be the last public speaking engagement for awhile. It's stressful for me, I get nervous. I try to remember what Jerry Sinfeld said, "A survey was taken of the American public, asked what was their greatest fear, the #1 answer was public speaking, #2 was death. So Jerry said, People would rather be in the coffin than giving the eulogy." I guess I'd rather stand up and give the eulogy.

On the home front we are preparing to let go the lines and head the boat south to warmer waters for the winter. This will be the first time since 1981 that Dave and I have ventured forth on the water for an extended cruise. There are similarities but also this will be very different. We've been preparing the boat and ourselves. The Richard & Arnold has new batteries, inverter, hot water heater, alternator, new stove and a freezer. Today Dave is cleaning up his tools and making room for the freezer. I think the boat will do fine. I've got plenty of Bonine, so I'm ready. We will be moving aboard next week, I hope. We need to store gear: clothing, food, kitchen equipment and all the rest of the amenities that make living aboard possible, like flash-lights, netting, bungie cords, binoculars, air horn, survival suits, and a thousand other items that will keep us safe, warm and dry. The past week we put sound-down on the ceilings of the engine room and sound proofing floor mats for the wheel house, I'm hoping I wont't need ear plugs. We purchased, via Craig's list, two new wheelhouse chairs. These are  bucket seats out of a Honda Oddessey, never used, like new, with arm rests! Dave said it's a good thing he didn't have them last summer when he was fishing, he'd probably have fallen asleep at the helm. This is the first time in the 33 years that we have owned the Richard & Arnold that I have my own seat in the wheelhouse. Dave hopes this isn't going to lead to a mutiny.
A couple of days ago we learned that we couldn't take the tracking device off the boat for the winter, we thought because we were heading to Florida for vacation and there would be no fishing that we could just unplug the thing. No such luck, so now we are installing a new, mandated new, tracking device that will track our every move. And we thought Big Brother was a myth.
I have to sign off for now, my granddaughter is on the couch with a sore throat, needs some TLC. She hates the idea that her Nonnie is leaving for the winter. I will keep in touch as we journey south. Fair winds.